Giraffe in Akagera

Turning off the tarmac, we headed towards Akagera National Park. The ruddy red road threw up clouds of dust. “You know take the ‘African massage’!” laughed Gilles our driver, as the bumping ride pounded our spines. Passing scenes quickly changed. Longhorn cattle herds swaggered lazily along the roadside (and I mean long – horns up to a metre on each side of their heads!). Scruffy smiling children waved, shouting to capture our gaze.

Gilles’ experienced eye surveyed the horizon, spotting a horse-like shape in the distance. Amazing. Quite moving to see: zebras, their zig-zag hides unmistakable, grazing among farmers’ cattle. By rights, this is the zebra’s true home. But even the native wild animals didn’t escape the sweep of Rwanda’s Genocide. As lawlessness ran rife, Park Rangers fled to Tanzania. Without protection Akagera’s wildlife faced merciless slaughter. The park’s lion population of 250 was largely wiped out – hunted for meat or poisoned by desperate farmers trying to eke out a living. And in the aftermath, almost two-thirds of Akagera’s fenceless tracts of land were reclaimed to house many thousands of Rwandan farmers, returning from exile in Uganda, Tanzania, Kenya and the like.

With reduced animal numbers, smaller area and a tourist hiatus, its future looked bleak. But, thankfully, with careful reintroduction of animals and the dedication of an armed troop of Park Rangers, Akagera is beginning to rise again.

We planned to do a two-day circuit of the park, and at the northern gate picked up Emmanuel, our Park Guide. Despite his rheumy-eyed, laconic nature, his ability to spot animals far in the hazy horizon and insightful expertise enhanced our visit, way beyond what we’d hoped for. Schooled in veterinary science, he’d always loved animals and birds and was totally at home in the park. Far too full of life to be caged in a classroom, the savannah plains and lakeside settings proved an ideal platform for his extensive knowledge. His expressive hand gesticulation and thick-accented English taught us much.

Over the next two days, we saw many animals: giraffes craning their elegant necks to feed on acacia leaves, impala antelopes springing nervously deep into the bush, tusked warthogs snorting in disgust as we disturbed their graze; crocodiles, vervet monkeys, baboon troops and innumerable bird varieties. But, best of all were the hippos.

Zebra in the wild

These massive vegetarians enjoy wallowing close to the lakeshore. Sinking underneath to feed and cool from the fierce heat, they can stay under for up to twenty-five minutes. Loud bursts of air expelled from their nostrils alert you to their presence as they surface. Beady eyes watching – from time to time they yawn. Watching and filming them was a magical experience. Dubbed Africa’s most-dangerous mammal for their erratic, sometimes deadly charges, they are at peace in the water.

Staying in Akagera’s Game Lodge, high in the cooler hills, we woke early to a crimson sun, rising to fill the sky. A real ‘Out of Africa’ moment, Tanzania’s hills added the perfect backdrop. Few guests were in the hotel, in this the off-season. But among the many that do drop in, some are less than welcome. As we sat eating lunch in the restaurant, resting from the midday heat, we witnessed unwelcome guests. A large male Olive Baboon clambered onto the veranda, trying the locked glass door several times. Regular and cunning pests, they have at times managed to get into the kitchens, wreaking havoc as they greedily grasp any food in sight!

Sadly, we didn’t get to see all the park’s treasures. Few lions are now left and they are a rare sight. The remaining leopards are equally elusive. So, we were thrilled to hear that fishermen working the central Lake Ihema spotted a herd of 25 of elephants strolling by their camp the day before. We made several attempts to track them, but despite Emmanuel’s best efforts, we missed out. “How on earth can a few trees hide a huge group of these massive beasts?” You may well ask (in mildly disappointed tone!). Well, “This is nature; this is how she is” came Emmanuel’s wise reply…

As with our other experiences of Rwanda, Akagera was wonderful. This country holds so much potential. Sure problems remain and development continues apace, but this land-locked gem is well worth exploring. A graceful and safe introduction to all that central Africa has to offer.

Book early to avoid disappointment!